Today is my final Sunday at site and next Saturday I'll be heading to Kyiv for the last time. I'll start packing and saying my goodbyes this week at school, hopefully escaping without too many tears. I was hoping that this weekend would be filled with quality time with my host family, but there is illness and a lot of work-related issues to be taken care of. The weather has been gray and cold as well, limiting random strolling and conversation. So, I'm pacing my room trying to prepare everything that I can think of to make my next transition as stress-free as possible. I jotted down a list of things I'll miss that I wish to share.

Things I'll Miss

- Tomatoes. Pickled tomatoes aren't that bad, but that first crop in June makes all the waiting worth while. Ukraine has killer tomatoes for three months.

- Words being a gift. As I've stressed countless times, Ukrainians love celebrating. They celebrate births, weddings, name days, birthdays, national holidays, Soviet holidays, Saint days, and occupation days (Nurse Day, Teacher Day) to name a few. Typical gifts are flowers, chocolate, and cognac that are always accompanied by a short speech. I guess in a country that has suffered so much, words are one of the more original, thoughtful, and inexpensive ways to show someone that they are important to you.

-Time to think. Like today, I have had more time to just be than I probably had in a month in the states. Life is much slower here for me.

- The spring awakening. Ukraine resembles northeast Ohio for its winters. It's cold and gray for weeks on end. I can't get warm no matter how many pairs of tights I put on. Sometime during April there is an overnight change; green grass, buds, blue skies, and a deafening din of animal husbandry.

- The joy of getting water. Almost every week our water is turned off. Sometimes just for a day but more often for two or three. I hate cooking when there's no water, it slows down the process and I get headaches from dehydration. When the water gets turned back on, I do a little dance and thank the water gods. It's a simple pleasure that never gets old.

-The 6th form. The students in the 6th form can make me smile even on the worse of days. They aren't necessarily a smart class, but they're witty and enjoy a practical joke.

- Naps. What else am I supposed to do in winter?

- Escape into the simple life. There are so many problems and injustices, however people that I interact with daily don't always put their energy into complaining about these things. I never hear conversations about the future, philosophy, or character development. Most of the time I find this frustrating, I wish to hear something more complex and thoughtful. I'll miss being around people that cope by focusing on the simple things and daily life.

- Summer outfits. I've often joked with Americans about what it would be like if What Not to Wear came to Ukraine. Granted, the culture barrier and spending money on useless accessories would ultimately cancel the show. I thank the local interpretation of globalization for the incredible originality that shines through women's fashion, particularly in the summer.

- Babushka waddle. Women over the age of fifty have a distinct universal walk. It involves short steps or shuffles with the weight being passed onto the forwarding foot. It appears as though it's a natural part of the aging process, of becoming a babushka.

Earlier this summer I listened to an interview of Abhijit Banerjee on Econtalk about poverty. I found myself agreeing with what he was saying, particularly in regard to education and health for developing countries. His descriptions of programs never mentioned Eastern Europe, but parallels to Ukraine were made again and again. Below is an excerpt of the interview where he talks about education. What he is describing here is exactly what I've experienced during my Peace Corps service:

Let's turn to the role of education, which is often thought to be the biggest single barrier to development; and as many have pointed out, there have been some dreadful results and attempts to improve education. This isn't only true in developing countries; it's true in developed countries as well. I always find it ironic that people look at the ineffectiveness of government spending on education via aid and forget how ineffective American spending on education often is in our own country. Let's talk about the big picture first. You contrast what you call the demand wallahs and the supply wallahs, where wallah is a term that means "provider of." Some people suggest we need to build more schools, create more teachers in these poor countries. Others say that unless there's a reason to go to school, a reason to invest, all the schools and teachers in the world won't matter. Talk about what's true and false about those views and what we do know that can make students better educated in poor countries. We know that the demand method--when it's clear that there are benefits from education, people put more effort into it. Also the supply method--when people have schools to go to, they learn more. It's not true that you can just tell people that you should want education and then magically schools will appear. There is a lot of clear evidence that school construction and more generally making schools more available does affect the educational level. Having said that, the reason why that debate is a bit besides the point is that if you look at where the big failures are, they seem to be inflated with our putting effort into sending these children to school and schools are there and still true that people aren't learning. That's the most striking thing. The striking fact is the lack of learning in settings where there doesn't seem to be any obvious lack of demand, or any lack of supply in the sense of there being a school, a teacher, etc. I think what makes it really interesting is that fact. You see a lot of private schools in developing countries. Interesting there are private schools that the poor send their children to, $1 a month or $2 a month kinds of private schools. They are all over the developing world. These parents are very poor and for them, $2 a month is a lot of money, so they are putting effort into this. They are making sure that their kids are getting something that they value. Yet even in those schools, you see slightly better results than the government schools, but still very disappointing results even in those cases. The average kid there isn't studying at great levels, either. The problem seems to be attitude of the entire education system--the teachers, the parents, and even the children toward what the goal of education is. They seem to have the idea that the goal of education is to get through some difficult exam and get some job having got through that. And that's something that only a few people can do it, what we call a winner-take-all education. It's like education is some long large gamble, something everybody should try, but it can't work out for everybody or for most people. Whereas in fact we know that most people get something out of being educated. Even if you can read a little bit you understand what these instructions are from the doctor; you do a little bit better in bringing up your children. The benefits seem to be much more widespread than people assume. The teachers seem to assume that most of these kids are hopeless; there's no point to trying to teach them anything. They just teach to the top of the class. And the parents don't complain, because they also think that the goal of the whole system is to train somebody, to find out whether your child is one of those few lucky geniuses who is going to go on to get a good education and a fine job; and if he isn't, what's the point of educating him? Everybody is much more pessimistic about the education outcomes of the median person than they should be. So, based on that, the curricula are way too hard, the teachers don't pay any attention to any of the children falling behind in class, the parents don't complain when the children fall behind in class--either they assume that there is some rough justice there, either your kid is really smart and the education is worthwhile, otherwise there is no point. So, everybody kind of colludes with that, and the kids very quickly lose hope. They kind of figure out that they are not one of these anointed people, and they start giving up. You see these children sitting through class after class where they understand nothing. They are in fourth grade, they can't really read. They are teaching history, they understand nothing of what's going on, but they sit calmly through school and start kind of dropping out. They vote with their feet. When they are in fourth grade they are too young; maybe keep coming. But by the time they reach sixth or seventh grade, they know the school thing is not working out for them, so they just drop out. You see this pattern over and over again, of unreasonable expectations that then are effectively used to clean out most of the people in the education.

Pincus the Peddler

I found this song by Benny Bell to be quite funny: Pincus the Peddler

Fall Break

This past week was fall break for schools across Ukraine. After taking care of some business in Kyiv I visited a friend in Crimea for a few days. Crimea is beautiful all year, but I especially enjoyed the changing leaves this time. We hiked around Bahcisaray, a Turkish settlement surrounded by mountain caves.

Almost There

My friend Karen sent me this card for my birthday. It almost made me emotional. This evening I spoke to my parents about an outing they had this weekend in Cleveland and now I can't wait for cold December weekends of shopping and drinking milkshakes. I'm almost home, Ohio.

Happy Halloween

11th grade's jack-o-lantern for the school's dance party

Let Me Count the Ways

It's been a busy period for foreign correspondents in Ukraine with Yulia Tymoshenko's trial. I was a little surprised that no one has mentioned to me the results in the past week. The teachers' room, birthplace of all my gossip, has been completely silent about this issue. Perhaps I missed the conversation but I'm more inclined to believe that it hasn't occurred for two reasons. First, my colleagues are refraining in order to avoid a heated debate. It's not in their nature to discuss politics. Second, it is too distant from their day-to-day lives.

Hence, I was surprised today to overhear a conversation I never expected. Most conversations in the teacher's room are about the personal lives of students, the weather, when it will be pay day, and how much everything costs. Today's conversation took the typical route. First, they stated how cold they were and asked each other about the temperature in their classrooms. Then, they asked each other if they were heating their homes (it's in the low 40s). This was followed by what the price of Russian gas is and what each of them heard on the news the night before.

The next comment I'm still trying to process, translated from Ukrainian, was, "I like the system in Belarus, people are satisfied there. It's good that the president has all the power and that the media is censored." Bam.

This wasn't said by a babushka, but a woman in her early thirties. Everyone in the room (except for myself) agreed with her. It goes against everything Peace Corps is trying to promote in Ukraine (democracy, freedom of speech). It hurt to hear after spending so much time working in this community.

The Lost Town fo Trochenbrod

I listened to this story today from APM: The Story about a Jewish town outside of Lutsk during the war. I wish I were a little bit older so that I could have interacted with this generation that immigrated to Cleveland.

Last month I received the best birthday gift of getting to meet my brother and sister-in-law in Copenhagen. It was truly undeserved and I'm forever in debt to my family for all of their love and support. One of the most difficult to describe experiences I've had as a Peace Corps volunteer is jumping from my everyday life in rural nowhere to being my former self. Leaving Ukraine, for me, is about freeing myself of this altered reality. The point of which I go from being the Amerikanka under constant pressure to be the perfect example of my citizenship to the self I'm comfortable as is a draining exercise. It's why going to Kyiv to be anonymous is so refreshing. Mentally leaving Ukraine is going to be difficult. I realize how none of this is earth shattering.

The physical point where I will leave Ukraine for good will be Boryspil, the main airport in Kyiv. Some of my peers really like Boryspil, especially after its reconstruction, because of its modernity. I despise this airport. In the past it was ridiculed for its chaotic format, unwelcoming feel, and dirtiness. Though the word to describe my opinion of the old airport isn't "like" I appreciated it for having something becoming more infrequently occurring in a globalized world. It had an identity; a lively, greasy, corrupt spirit.

The new terminals, hundreds of millions of dollars, look no different than any other budget addition to any other regionally significant airport in the world. There is no way of knowing you're in Ukraine in this glass and steel skeleton. There are English pubs and duty free shops, void of Ukrainian goods besides some vodka and chocolate. There isn't even a welcome sign in Ukrainian. To my mind, this is the perfect analogy of where Ukraine stands today to the outside world; lacking an identity and willing to scrape any leftovers to make it look like a legitimate player. Ukraine is constantly looking to the outside for guidance, never looking internally to see what's missing.

I was thinking about this as I was enjoying a blueberry smoothie and pecan pie in a pleasantly dim lit lounge of the Riga airport on my way to Copenhagen. Much to my surprise, a discussion on this very topic of globalization and the airport has come to the forefront on design sites. Here's an interesting article.

200th Post!

I admit my last few entries have been weak and I blame the ticker for entries on my blogger account. Every 100 entries, yes, twice during my service, I celebrate with pandas, this one courtesy of Boing Boing.

Thanks everyone (Mom) for following me over the last two years!

being the toast of your next tea break

I recommend SovLit.com to freshen up on all of your twentieth century based conversation topics.

PGH

Bridges of Pittsburgh

Circa 1905. "Pittsburgh from Mount Washington -- Monongahela River with Smithfield Street Bridge and Pan Handle Bridge." Panorama made from two 8x10 inch dry plate glass negatives. Detroit Publishing Company.

PGH: 1905

1905. "Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, from Mount Washington." 8x10 inch dry plate glass negative, Detroit Publishing Company.

I love these images of Pittsburgh too much not to share them. I look forward to crossing a bridge or two in a little over a month.

The Time Change Stresses Me Out, Man

I like the autumn time change. It usually comes at a much needed time of the year when I could use that extra hour of sleep. That first Sunday strikes me as crisp and sunny.

For some reason, Ukraine is taking Russia's lead and isn't going to change back an hour like most of the world. The best worst part of this update is the reasoning for the lack of change, as stated in forUm:

As reported earlier, the MPs believe that annual time conversion from winter to summer time "causes time stress and has a negative impact on the psychological and physical conditions of people, which results in greater loss than an insignificant energy saving."

As for me, the one word that doesn't come to mind with time change is "stress." If anything, if I were a government official I'd be more worried about other stresses that impact the psychological and physical conditions of people such as the tardiness of government paydays, the lack of medical supplies, poisoned water... What loss are they speaking of?

Facial Tic

The last full week of September I went to Copenhagen to meet up with my family for the UCI (Cycling) Worlds Championships. It was awesome.

On the way back to Kyiv I had a layover in Riga, Latvia. I noticed that several Israelis were getting on my flight. I immediately realized that it's Rosh Hashanah, the Jewish New Year. Many Jews make a pilgrimage to Uman, Ukraine for Rosh Hashanah because it is the burial site of Rebbe Nachman, founder of the Breslov Hassidic movement.

I was nervous about landing in Kyiv because there have been some recent changes to the visa regime and Peace Corps has warned us that we might experience trouble re-entering Ukraine with our documents. Luckily, I blew right through passport control and customs. Upon whispering a "Slava Bo-hue" (Thank God) under my breath I raised me head up high, free from the lines of inspection.

In a period of my life when I'm constantly dwelling on social cues and overhearing conspiracies, I had to wonder if I'd just gotten through because I look rather Ukrainian. Yes, my freckle count is much higher than the average, but in general I look pretty similar. Behind me over the barrier were Russian nationals waiting to get their stamps, making sour faces at the hordes of inflowing Hassidic Jews. At the customs counter every single Asian looking person was being pulled aside and asked what his or her official business was.

Boryspil (Kyiv's major airport) has a lot to learn when it comes to being less evident in its racial profiling. I left the experience a little disappointed, but relieved that there is national dialogue about racial profiling this very week. Here's an article in forUm.

Uh Oh

Last week Dolce & Gabbana announced that they are killing their D&G line because of "price wars" with the other line. This is sad news for former Soviet states everywhere, home to counterfeit D&G products. I can't imagine walking through a bazaar without stockpiles of sunglasses and perfumes. What are men between the ages of 20 and 30 going to wear when they go clubbing? Ed Hardy? What self-respecting 6th grader will replace his D&G socks for Armani?

Can't say no.

My last year of college while getting my thesis bound at the copy shop I sighed with the relief of knowing I wouldn't need to hunt down or buy any more obscure magazines or textbooks about urban planning in Eastern Europe that I couldn't afford. I could stop. Of course, I didn't know that in less than four months I'd be moving to Ukraine where there are large used book bazaars on the weekends. I'd be in the mecca of socialist planning, of predetermined industrial cities that were calculated to the exact number of cows per hectare. I'm afraid to say I'm not stronger than the temptation and am trying to think of creative ways to tape these books to my body since my suitcases will be borderline overweight.

What progress are you speaking of?

Not much changes in my village. The weather, yes. The sort of tomato seed planted or the state of a lampost. This has been a big year then by these measures.

This past spring one of my favorite garbage dumps has miraculously been transformed into a new building. It's yellow! It has curves! It's so obvious that someone somewhere abused funds and the political party in power is trying to mellow disapproval!

Meet our new "Building of Work/Labor." The old site was a first floor apartment, so I don't know what all they'll do with this space. I dream of workshops and trainings. Childcare.

I have to say I'm impressed with the construction. There are five air conditioner units on the back of it. It also has the first parking spaces I've seen anywhere in my town.

Ingenious

Patriotic Horse-Drawn Taxi near the Belarusian Border

Map of Ukrainian Dialects

Molochansk

The school year is off to a good start and I'm glad to be busy with the students and preparing for what comes after November 23rd when my service ends. I've got a running list of topics I wish to write about and share that I'll hopefully get to the next few weeks.

In August I had the pleasure of visiting the Mennonite Centre in Molochansk, a town in Zaporizhia Oblast. Molochansk was one of the central Mennonite settlements in the nineteenth century. It was founded in 1804 as Halbstadt, Molochansk refers to the river that runs through the area. Originally I thought this center was under the direction of the Mennonite Central Committee that has operations in Ukraine but I quickly learned that it is independent of this organization. I'd been wanting to visit this part of Ukraine since receiving my Peace Corps placement, hearing about it historically through church publications and college lectures on Russian imperialism.

After winning land from the Turks, in 1763 Catherine the Great sent a decree inviting German settlers to the vast plains of Ukraine to colonize it. She promised them religious freedom, greatly sought by the various sects of Christians who had fled parts of Prussia and the Netherlands. Mennonites built over fifty villages in the Zaporizhia region, having important roles in the politics and business of the cities of Zaporizhia and Dnipropetrovsk. They were respected for their work ethic and agricultural skills that blessed the empire with grain, greatly pleasing the Czarist family who would visit on their trips to and from Crimea.

With the upset of the First World War, the Second World War, and Stalin's campaigns; almost all Mennonites left Ukraine by the 1940s, some being deported to Kazakhstan. Mennonites from this region were greeted in Canada, parts of South America including Paraguay, and the plains of the United States. During the rest of the 20th century, the settlements were Ukrainianized, changing names and collectivized. With their love of history and ancestry, many people with roots visited the region over the years. Today there are popular Mennonite tours through Russia and Ukraine to look at former settlements. It was during one of these tours that a group of Canadians took great interest in the overall deterioration and poverty present at the birthplace of their parents. Thus, in 2001, The Friends of the Mennonite Centre in Ukraine was established and the Mennonite Centre opened. A group of directors from Canada rotate, supported by a local staff that run the center.

I was extremely impressed by their operations. The Mennonite Centre offers community development programs; providing health care, farm assistance, meals, youth programs, and scholarships. The Mennonite Centre acts as a base for historic preservation of the area, including a library of books written by Canadians and Americans about the former colonies. It was interesting to look through old photos and note that services available back then are still needed today in modern Ukraine but are lacking: schools for the deaf and blind, training schools, lush farms.

During my visit Linda and Ben Stobbe, whose parents came from this area, took me around Molochansk and villages in the area. It was the only time I've been in a car while passing through vast fields, so it was fun to stop and take pictures of interesting buildings and characters. I learned so much from them on this tour. One thing that I had no clue about before this was the great cultural differences between the Mennonites that came to the Russian Empire and the ones that came directly from Switzerland to the United States like my family did. The Mennonites that came directly west are much more socially conservative than the ones that headed east. They were much less inclined to have public roles, have excess wealth, or heaven forbid listen to music. Thus, I was quite confused when Ben and Linda would point out a huge structure as being a former Mennonite mansion, complete with a concert hall.

One of the most amazing parts of their tour was stopping by the home of a woman named Margarita. Margarita is believed to be the last remaining German, she is in her 90s. Much to her parents' disapproval, she married a Ukrainian (outside the Mennonite community) and after both were sent away to different labor camps after the war, they relocated each other and moved back home. She lives in the same house she was married in some 75 years ago. She was delighted to see Linda and Ben who spoke to her in German, immediately raising her spirits. She was confused by my presence, being able to speak Russian and Ukrainian. It was good that I was there though because I could translate what Linda and Ben wanted to tell her caretakers.

Dutch-Curved Window of a Former Mansion

The brickwork on these structures is nearly impossible to undo, thus many still stand.

Ben Stobbe pointing out the brickwork pattern which marks Mennonite era buildings.

A Plaque for a Former Church that was used for grain storage during Soviet times.

A windmill of Dutch design that was used to make flour.

Inside the windmill

A former mansion that is now the local hospital.

Gate to a former home

A former home that has been remodeled into an Orthodox church.

Former Home that is now a post office.

This was a church were several Mennonites were shot during the Second World War. It's had different uses over the years, currently someone is living in the back and vines cover the bullet holes.

The Molohchna Hill that divided Mennonite settlements from Lutherans and other groups.

A monument built after Independence by Ukrainians, remembering disabled children who were rounded up and shot in these fields during the Second World War.

I now forget which school this was, but it was used as a community center until recently, it's in need of renovation.

Survivor 2011

Survivor Camp 2011 was a success! Roughly fifty of us camped on a wildflower covered mountaintop several kilometers away from the closest market. Yes, we were rained out the first few days but 4th July celebrations and Ivan Kupala made up for that.

Our Survivor Fashion Show

My wreath for Ivan Kupala that took way too long to make

Our kitchen set up with local teacher and guide Oleksander

Morning Exercises

Doing what I do best, embroidering during a break.

First Bell

Thursday, the first of September was First Bell or Day of Knowledge all across Ukraine. It's estimated that there are about 4 million school-aged children in Ukraine. That's a lot of hair bows.

I have a good feeling about this semester despite the guilt that I won't see it to the end. I'm excited about the variety of grades I'll be working with and the new blood at our school. Above is a picture of my counterpart, Alla, with her new class of fifth formers. Her seniors graduated last May and as a class teacher she's been nominated to be in charge of "5a" until their graduation. I love the girls in the left column. They're my personal cheerleaders.

Half of Ukrainians cannot afford necessity goods

A constant topic of conversation for volunteers and their family and friends that come to visit Ukraine is the gap between the have and have nots. A two-week tour of the country leaves a great impression of beautiful countryside, hospitable people, and lots of potential. It's difficult to understand why Peace Corps is operating in this country in comparison to images sent to us from parts of Africa and Asia. I don't want to start a rant about why Ukraine needs love and attention, but I'd like to say that so much of what is presented to visitors to this country is a facade. On the surface, despite the political and economic headlines, the country is working. You can see with your own eyes renovated apartments, nice cars, and talented children.

Simplifying a complex issue, Ukrainians have been taught to show their best face to outsiders. The Soviet system was all about showing off the wealth of the country, there are stories of foreign correspondent visits to kolkhozes of utopian quality. Only, the people were given food and pressed clothes for the day that were taken away once the media left. This reaction of presenting the best side has trinkled down to the individual. On the one hand it's upsetting because it creates a false impression that can cause others to take advantage. It delays attention to much needed help. On the other hand, it has taught me how to present myself despite some missing pieces.

from ForUm-

The results of a household opinion survey conducted by the State Statistics Committee showed that over 40% of Ukrainian families cannot afford even the most necessary goods. Though the results showed a certain positive trend, on the whole they are unfavorable. It turned out that 40.6% of Ukrainian families constantly refrain from buying the most necessary goods (this figure was 43.6% last year). Of them, 3.1% cannot even provide enough food (3.4% last year) and almost half of the polled (47.8% against 45.3% last year) said they have enough money for daily expenses, but do not have any savings.

Only every ninth family (11.6%) has the possibility of putting away money for a rainy day, Kyivweeklyreported.

Rural families were more optimistic about their well-being, which experts attributed to the lower cost of living in the rural areas and that fact that these people live off their private farms.

Pollsters asked how respondents would spend additional incomes and received the following answers:

medical treatment and recreation

improvement of living conditions

purchasing clothing and footwear

purchasing household appliances

improvement of nutrition and education

education

putting away savings.

COS

My amazing summer wrapped up with a Peace Corps conference for my group's COS (Close of Service). It was a wonderful time of remembering what we've accomplished and commenting on how much we've changed. Now it's on to goodbyes, paperwork, and finding employment.

For over the past year I've been dreaming of finding a "COS outfit." Luckily I scored this number at a bazaar this summer. It has all the elements of a boardwalk along the Black Sea: rhinestones, parachute pants, animal print, tropical elements, neon, and of course flammable spandex.

Zaporizhia

On the way to Molochansk and my last camp I passed through Zaporizhia, home of the Zaporozhian Cossacks and the DniproHES hydro-electric dam, once labeled one of the wonders of the world.

The Zaporozhian Cossacks have an interesting story, today there is a museum where they once lived.

Chotsky Time

Last week I attended a friend's language camp held at a sanatorium on the Black Sea. He works at a pedagogical college where young people learn to become English teachers. Part of their practicum is leading summer camps, a huge business in Ukraine. The last three weeks of this particular summer camp focused on English and his college invited some volunteers to help with activities. Once again it was nice to meet new children and see a different part of the country.

Sanatoriums like the one the camp were held at struggle to become privatized, some Peace Corps volunteers work with these organizations to make them less dependent on government contracts. This particular one appeared to have a contract with the Russian government, so there were two large groups of children from Internats. An Internat can be translated as orphanage but really it's home to many youth. In Ukraine children are sent to internats by families who can't afford to raise and feed they're children. Children with special needs are also sent there. My experience with these groups has been limited, but I'm amazed to learn about these children's lives and how different they are from those taking part in government programs in the US.

The group from Moscow seemed to be an exception to the norm. They were well dressed and opened up about events and special programs they had attended. They had many questions for me and the other Americans, like what Russian TV shows are popular in America. Knowing very little English, our time together consisted mainly of children's songs and UNO. They were adorably sad to see me go, gifting me with handicrafts they'd made. The best present though was a set of spoons, as shown below. The children have been playing spoons since elementary school and put on a concert for us. They played rhythmically to folk songs. The next day a group of them gave me an individual lesson, leaving me with slightly swollen hands and light bruises along my legs and arms. I feel as though yet another level of cultural integration has been checked off my list.

Donbass Tour

I apologize for the lack of entries lately. ABC and scattered Internet connection have been my excuse for not writing. I've been jotting down in my notebook daily amusings that I'll hopefully compose during language camp this week.

After ABC I took a quick tour of the east to Lugansk and Donetsk, which comprise the "Donbass", the industrial and coal mining heart of Ukraine. Before arriving I assumed that it would be coal-dust covered with not so warm people, using the retold stereotypes. I was quite surprised at how beautiful the area was. Much like America's rustbelt, the Donbass has had a difficult time restructuring itself beyond energy and manufacturing. Factories have closed and oligarchs fail to invest in their properties. On the one hand, this causes unemployment. On the other, the environment is much cleaner. In fact, I found it much easier to breathe at my friend's site than at my own, perhaps because there isn't trash burning in the center or animal waste everywhere. I enjoyed the remnants of soviet planning of company towns and tried to imagine them at full capacity.

Being in the Donbass, I didn't feel like I was in the Ukraine I know. Lugansk is an 18 hour train ride away from Kyiv. The area is historically Russian and I heard very little Ukrainian on the street. I found it amusing that at the train station the map of routes didn't have a line dividing Ukraine and Russia, as though Ukraine is indeed part of Russia.

Ancient fertility goddesses found in the area displayed in the courtyard of Lugansk's pedagogical university.

I love the socialist sculptures.

Gas Lines to Russia

Me posing with one of the great tourist attractions of the east, a terakon. A massive hill of coal waste. They dot the countryside, forming alien landscapes.

Ideal Body of the Soviet Female

Pun of the Week: Chai Coffee+ski (Tchaikovsky)